I have dabbled with climbing through the years, never too serious though. I have always been intrigued by the climber Chris Sharma, and this journal of his adds to the interest as I can relate to many of the issues he brings up about being ‘pro’…

I’m starting to get settled in after being here for a little over a week. As always, being in a foreign country by myself will teach me many new things about people, relationships, communication, and myself. Being in a place where I know no one really forces me to open up to everyone.It’s so great to be staying in France with French people (and especially with the freedom of going solo). So many doors have already opened with meeting people who invite me to their secret areas. It feels good traveling alone (though it can get a little lonely with the language barrier) and observing, rather than coming over in a big posse - essentially bringing America to Europe and never leaving the bubble of American culture. Also, having no agenda or expectations is giving me a lot of flexibility and openness to be in the moment, climb what is appealing, and just flow.

Last year when I was working on Realization I was very locked-in with a specific goal. It was draining. This year I’m just going to try routes and enjoy new experiences. I feel a little funny making this journal for Climbing, because I know that most of my thoughts aren’t about climbing. I’m a full-time rock climber, yet I’m not only that. Climbing hits the spot, but sometimes even too much chocolate makes you vomit. Today started like all the others: croissants and café au lait in the center of a very ancient village called St. Guilhem, where I’m staying with my friend Laurent Triay. Laurent has bolted hundreds of routes in southern France and has been an excellent guide, showing me many off-the-beaten-track areas. We went to an absolutely incredible cave with 170-foot routes out sweeping limestone bulges. Very steep, nice rock, and no people! It was a very peaceful place. I was happy to on-sight a classic 5.13d. I was at my limit and it’s nice to feel myself getting into shape. Before this trip I didn’t climb routes for more than a year. It was a much-needed break from climbing. I cannot climb all the time, but it’s good to know that when I do climb I can really put my heart into it. I think it’s impossible for me to always climb at my highest level, if not because of my body needing a rest, for sure because my mind needs a change.

It’s ideal to walk the middle line in life. It’s for sure the way of peace. I’m trying every day to find that way. I get lost on a path that from afar seems so simple. Sometimes I’m too lazy and sometimes I hurry too much. I’d like to be right between those extremes. This is true with climbing as well. When I’m on a big jug, there’s no need to hold it like it’s a little crimper. I’d be smart to take it for what it is: a jug. If I hold onto that jug and won’t let go for fear of the next sequence of little crimpers then I’m not in balance. That’s not the middle way. The way I climb and relate to climbing these days is completely different from when I started nine years ago. At first it was a romantic love; now the relationship has progressed to a more mature, day-in, day-out lifestyle. I’m past the romance stage, but still in love. There are times to be mellow, times to be intense, times to be fanatic, and times to be balanced. That is the balance of life. In order for me to climb my best I feel that I need to do other things to balance that intensity. For me that balance is in meditation, yet I know I’m a long way from mastering this balance. It was great to finally climb today. I did a 5.14a second try at Claret. I feel more complete after exercising my body and being out in the sun and trees. It’s nice to be so focussed when trying a hard route. These moments are so pure; there is no separation and there is nothing to think about or understand because it’s all right there. The here, the present, the moment. Everything! We hadn’t climbed for a week due to floods in southern France. They were incredible to see. Water is so powerful. I need to learn to move on the rock like water. The more I can flow on the rock like water, the more I understand and the less separation there will be between us. Climbing hard will come naturally from that point, like a flooded river wiping out a bridge without even having to think about it. Jorge Visser and Lauren Lee have joined me for a while, and we drove 20 hours to the World Cup Bouldering comp in Italy.

For the remainder of Sharma’s journal, click HERE.